Day One

I am almost at the end of my first day here in China, and what a day it has been. I could fill ten pages and have much left to tell if I wrote even half of it! This city is incredible – so friendly, so positive and energetic!


When we made our descent through the clouds China was shrouded in thick fog. When I saw the mist chasing over the hills and ridges I think I was happier than I have ever been before.


We touched Chinese tarmac at 6:50am, and were directed through the airport to a gate marked ‘Foreigners.’ After a quick visa check we boarded a shuttle train to baggage reclaim, then headed out of the airport, into the coach, where we met Michael, our Chinese guide.


It is a national holiday this week throughout the country. China celebrates the birth of the People’s Republic at this time every year, since 1949, and because of this Beijing is inundated with native tourists. Most people have been given the whole week off – and to think in England we’re lucky if we get all of Christmas free!


I love this place. Words do not convey how positive my first impression of the city has been. With its twenty-three million inhabitants and high density of traffic it is smog-ridden and a little frayed around the edges, but I have never seen a place so full of life, so lived in.


Two more facts of the day: Beijing translates as ‘North Capital.’ There is also a Nanjing (‘South Capital’), which was the former capital city of the nation until about six hundred years ago. Beijing is currently the size of Belgium, which I admit I find hard to grasp. I have come to a land where cities can engulf nations.


Because of the holiday the hotel is extremely busy, so we were unable to check in early. We left our bags in the corner like a large, dark blot on an otherwise immaculate canvas (the hotel gives off a swanky first impression), and headed out on the coach to the ‘hutongs’ – a world heritage site which is all that remains of Beijing’s original infrastructure. It is a messy, cramped series of alleys, some in much need of repair, but the ground there is work £20,000 per square metre. About 5% of the original city remains, and it is truly quaint.


Michael explained the difficult straits the old city is in whilst we lunched at the house of Mr Wong, who is the grandson of the last emperor’s chef. Determined to modernise the city and do away with the inherited ownership of the Hutongs, the government offers the inhabitants large sums of money and luxury high-rise properties for each family member. In short, selling a hutong to the government can make you an overnight millionaire. A three-person family can live in one flat, rent the other two at £4000 per square metre, and be sorted for life.


I think that the old city’s days are sadly numbered.


On our way to Mr Wong’s, we passed through a district of shops rather like Camden Town, but far more authentic. I saw silky scarves for ¥10 (about £1), and all colours of silk and satin. There were girls’ slippers, and all manner of trinkets galore.


On our way we also went on a bicycle rickshaw ride. I sat with Stephanie, and we saw the community of the hutongs. The houses are in many cases so old that modern plumbing is an impossible intervention, so there are public toilets on every block for the residents.


Mr Wong was a toothy old man with a laughing smile and long nails. He was also a wonderful cook. For lunch we had sticky rice, meatballs, picked celery, peppers, beans and chicken, pancakes, dumplings with pork, and the Wong family signature dish which the emperor once favoured – carrot and onion in batter and honey – all washed down by jasmine tea and Chinese beer. I am no connoisseur, but I regret that the beer tasted to me like all beer: soapy.


Following this veritable feast we bade goodbye to Mr Wong, his talking minor bird, and his really rather too cute grandson, and returned to the hotel.


After a short kafuffle over room-sharing arrangements I have ended up with Caroline, who I met on the training weekend, and after we had freshened up we made the bold decision to hold off from resting until tonight. Instead, with a few of our company, we went out.


At dusk the streets came alive with street vendors, and at the direction of the hotel staff we soon found a sprawling open air market, trading in beads, fake jade, pottery and art. It was one of the best shopping experiences I have ever had, strange though it was to be stared at as foreigners. We seemed to be the only non-Asians there. I bought a ‘jade’ bangle and a miniature tea set, a book for Dekka, a charm for Mum, and a bracelet with fish beads for Nanny.


The size of the place is hard to convey through words. There were easily a thousand stalls, and beads in every colour imaginable. There were calligraphy prints, walnut bracelets, dragon silhouette puppets made of leather, and I cannot tell you how much I loved it (even if I have some way to go before I can call myself a decent barterer).


We drank lemon iced tea in the sunset (rather different from Lipton I found), and wandered back past the fruit sellers and beggars on the street.


I will tell you more about it tomorrow, when we go to Huangyaguan to begin our trek. For now it’s time for dinner, and then some much needed shut-eye.